What to look for in buying a second-hand vacuum truck. I am going to assume that the unit you are looking at is fit for purpose, and I mean you aren’t buying a super sucker with a huge pump to do septic work or vis-versa.
Consider who you are buying the unit from and what is their reason for selling.
Let break this down into two specific areas.
First the actual truck cab/chassis.
This is the bit that carries the bit that makes the money. Absolutely critical to ask firstly is what the real mileage (kilometerage doesn’t sound right) is. Hot on the heals of this question is what maintenance records are available.
What you need to take into account here is that the truck engine will most likely power the vacuum system so the engine hours are very relevant here as well as distance covered. In the cases of some busy suburban trucks the engine hours can equate to any additional 30-50% distance travelled in hours worked!
If all of the information supplied checks out then is the unit being sold with a RWC, here in Victoria a road worthy certificate which certifies that its safe to use on the road.
Generally speaking a high mileage 600K km + Japanese truck will be an ongoing money pit requiring much R&M to keep it on the road so take this into account when purchasing. If no maintenance records are present then be very wary.
Of course a high mileage European truck can be exy as well but usually they are quite well maintained and be relied upon to get high miles out of an original engine. Its not uncommon for Volvo and Scanias to achieve 1.1m kms before requiring rebuilds. Bonneted trucks look good but are seldom practical in tight situations and comfort can be compromised along with cabin space also.. Horses for courses and personal preferences apply here. Having said that the majority of vacuum trucks in Australia are cab over.
If in doubt request to have an engine oil analysis which will give an indication of remaining life in most cases.
The drive.
A test drive is critical to the decision to purchase. Buying sight unseen is a big no no unless you have a qualified person check it out for you. a drive will reveal much about the trucks condition. Steering/braking/acceleration/vibrations are all on show during a drive. Its advisable to request a cold start to check for a smoking engine. Check also for coolant and oil leaks on the ground under the engine/gearbox and diffs.
The drive will also highlight any cabin air leaks/noises/vibrations etc. If the drive is positive and the maintenance records indicate a loved truck, and the price is within your budget it’s time to look further.
The age of the truck will also impact on whether it can be financed. Most companies are reluctant to finance trucks over 5 years old. Some will make an exception but that can depend on your broker of course.
The back bit…
So, with good value in the cab/chassis the back bit is then equally important and much of the above is still relative.
Well documented maintenance records indicate a well organised operation which concentrates on keeping their equipment in the best possible condition and values quality documentation. Information like vacuum pump hours/rebuild information, hydraulic oil changes, hydraulic rebuilds, other drive line maintenance info are huge indications of what you are getting into. Anything less that this then you have to draw your own conclusions.
Has the vacuum system been home built by a back yarder? How old is the complete tank and drive line? Ask to see the original quotation to establish what it was when originally ordered?
Is the drive line suited to the vacuum pump? Some builders use smaller horsepower drivelines which yield lesser vacuum levels. They may quote high airflow, but the achievable vacuum levels might only be 50-60% so the unit will lack vacuum lifting performance.
On the other hand, we are seeing some vacuum truck builders put oversize pumps on trucks doing work which require vacuum not airflow. In this case the unit is more costly to run as the horsepower required to run a bigger pump is higher. This in turn means higher running costs and of course less margin for you.
Likewise, a complete vacuum truck which is R&M (repairs and maintenance) heavy will result in lesser margins. Ask your accountant to explain R&M (if you are unfamiliar with the term) and its impact on your profit and loss. A new truck maybe cheaper to finance compared with the R&M costs on a yearly basis.
Consider the size and capacity of the vacuum tank. Is it suited to the truck or is it too large or too small? Years ago, we sold a vacuum pump to an old couter that fitted an old heavy LP gas tank to a 6×4 DAF. His legal payload was 6000 litres, when it could have been 11000 litres if the tank was sized correctly. Illegal yes? Dangerous of course! Have you heard the term stupid people do stupid things… a truck built with a tank which is incorrectly sized is generally worthless so be very wary of this. This is generally the work of a backyarder. More often than not the tank will be incorrectly mounted to the chassis also. This can cause the chassis to crack and also the vacuum tank will crack pending whichever is weaker. This could also have your insurance company asking nasty questions if the illegal truck is involved in an accident, not to mention the ever-present authorities of course.
Fit for purpose? Does it do what your workload is asking? Will it make your day easier or harder? How workable is the vacuum system and does the complete set up meet any EPA/state requirements? Is it currently EPA licensed? Ask to see the unit work in a real-life situation. A million years ago when I bought my first second hand vacuum tank Norm the gentleman, I got it from pumped out a septic tank for me. I was used to a diaphragm pump so you can imagine how shocked I was in this confounded voodoo vacuum magic??? When the tank was emptied within 5 minutes I was dumbfounded and bought it on the spot! We sell many rear door trucks which go into industrial application where heavier sludges and gravel/sand based products are picked up. A rear door is not really necessary for septics and grease traps. The door set up adds weight and cost. The weight reduces the legal payload and the increased costs add to your running cost and ultimate gross profit at the end of the day. If you do buy a rear door truck or any truck with hydraulically moving parts be sure to ask the seller to show you those components operating in a safe manner. Is there a safety prop?
Its time to turn our attention to the vacuum tank. Has it been built by a reputable builder? Importantly how thick is the barrel? A thickness test is easy to do and will indicate how much life is left in the barrel. Thickness testers can be hired and are quite cheap for a daily hire. If the barrel is thin say less than 5mm a failure is not far away. Tanks that have been built to AS1210 class 3 construction will have a build plate with important information for you to access. Does the barrel have access manways? Worth checking to see if the barrel still has the baffles intact. If not is there any external ribs? No baffle and no ribs will make for a great show when it sucks in… Use a torch to inspect, NOT a cigarette lighter… Best the barrel is cleaned internally so you can see how solid the welds are and any cracks in the baffle. Do not enter the barrel as you will be risking your life. There are many harmful gases present and there have been fatalities due to stupid people doing stupid things.
Obviously check the barrel externally for repairs an cracks. Look for patches and weld quality for signs of good or bad repairs.
Vacuum Truck Supplies has complete build files on all units we have built over the last 30 years. We track where possible changes in ownership and update our records where we can.
A well-loved vacuum truck with good maintenance records and in good original cared for condition is worth good money. Don’t hesitate to ask the guys at VTS if you need further information.
Article by Rod Glue
